Types of Fabric

When I first started sewing I had no clue really about anything.  One of the very first lessons I had to learn was that there are different types of fabric.

I guess I should really rephrase that.  I knew that there are different types of fabric because when you go to the fabric store they have labels on everything that tells you what type of fabric it is.  I knew that there was such a thing as flannel and fleece and chiffon.  What I didn't really understand is that fabric can be divided essentially into two main categories and that the type of fabric you are using for a particular project is actually important.

So in my opinion the most important thing you need to know about the fabric you are using is whether it is knit or woven.  Or to put it another way is your fabric stretchy and non-fray or is your fabric stable and unravelly.  I know- unravelly isn't a real word but it is a made up word that accurately describes woven fabric.

T-shirts are made up of a knit fabric.  When you cut a t-shirt you won't start having little individual threads fall off along the cut.  When you are putting a t-shirt on you don't need a zipper or elastic or buttons because the fabric itself with stretch to get onto your body and then contract to fit you properly.  This is why t-shirts are awesome and worn so often the fit is comfortable and simple.

You may also notice that the cut edge of this fabric, while not very pretty, is not frayed.  I'm not saying that the edges of a knit fabric won't break down at all- the little nicks you can see in my badly cut edge will probably eventually turn into rips and tears.  Scissors will create these slightly uneven cut lines, but a rotary cutter would help minimize any small nicks in the fabric.  A rotary cutter is basically a circular blade with a handle that rolls along the cut you want to make instead of chopping at it like scissors.  Knit fabrics aren't problem proof, but they are more forgiving if you don't finish off your seams at the end of a project.

Men's button down shirts are made out of a woven fabric.  If you cut a men's button down it will fray along the cut.  Using a fabric that will fray while sewing means that you have to be careful how you finish up your seams lest the fabric slowly dissolve away into threads.  Observe the danger here to the right.  And don't be fooled.  A single stitch line binding a seam together will not stop the destruction.  You can sew a beautiful piece of artwork then throw it in the wash and have it come out riddled with seam holes because the unraveling got past your thread.  I was very sad the first time that happened to me.


There are, of course, buttons in a men's button down because the fabric doesn't have much stretch (note the very important use of the word MUCH in that sentiment- all fabric will have a little bit of stretch).  If you don't have a zipper, snaps, buttons, hook and eyes or elastic (or one of many other forms of closures), you will probably not be able to get your garment on, or it will not be at all form fitting- which is fine if that's what you're going for.

So why use woven fabric at all? Woven fabric has more structure.  Look to the left and see how crisp and clean a button down shirt seems compared to a t-shirt.  There are sharp lines in the button down shirt.  A collar and cuffs and a general firm shape.  The t-shirt has a more relaxed feel.  It drapes on the body and takes on more of the wearers shape.  Each type of fabric has its own look and feel, so it's useful to consider what type of garment (or other project) you are making.  When working with a standard printed pattern you can find suggestions on what type of fabric to use by looking at the back of the pattern.  If you are using a pdf pattern or if you're working based off of a tutorial you might need to experiment around to choose your fabric.

I personally feel that woven fabric is easier to work with as a beginner sewer who is still trying to learn how to work her machine.  Woven fabric will more or less stay put as it runs through the presser foot under the needle.  Knit fabric may start to stretch a bit and move around causing wrinkled seams and sometimes the sobbing uncontrollable tears of disappointment and postpartum hormones.  Either way it is essential to understand which type of fabric you are using so that at the end of all your hard work you have a piece of clothing that you can use.

My very first attempt at sewing was a baby onesie.  I would not recommend this as a first sewing project at all.  I didn't understand the directions, so I started randomly sewing the seams that I knew had to go together.  I should have used a knit fabric for that project, but I liked the pastel colors on a woven flannel fabric that I had purchased in the remnants section at Jo-ann fabrics.  At the end of a lot of cutting and pinning and sewing I had a strange approximation of a onesie which I couldn't get my baby into because the material was to stiff and would stretch open over her head.  FAIL.  I would gladly post a picture of the monstrosity but I pitched it in the garbage shortly after its completion.